Why Is Brown, Rusty Water Pouring Out of My Tub?

The good news: it almost never means your pipes are about to burst. The bad news: it’s almost always a symptom of something that has been quietly deteriorating for years—and if you ignore it, that “something” can get very expensive. Here’s exactly what causes brown water in your tub, ranked from most common to less common, and what it really means for your wallet and your house.

1. Your Water Heater Is Rusting from the Inside (The #1 Offender I See)

In about 70 % of homes where only the hot water is brown, the culprit is the water heater tank itself.

Picture of a corroded anode rod next to a new one.

Here’s what happens:

Every water heater has a big steel tank lined with glass and protected by a sacrificial anode rod (a long metal rod made of magnesium, aluminum, or zinc). That rod is supposed to corrode instead of the tank. When the rod is completely eaten away (usually 8–15 years depending on water chemistry), the tank itself starts rusting. Rust flakes and sediment settle at the bottom. The next time you open the hot tap—especially first thing in the morning—boom, brown water.

Real-life example: Last month in Glastonbury I inspected a 14-year-old 50-gallon gas water heater. The anode rod was gone—literally nothing left but a steel core the thickness of a coat hanger. The bottom 6 inches of the tank was packed with rust flakes. The sellers had no idea until the buyer turned on the tub and got a bathtub full of iced-tea-colored water. That $1,200 water heater replacement became a negotiation point that saved the buyer thousands.

Quick test you can do tonight:

Turn on only the cold side of the tub. If it runs crystal clear but the hot side is brown or orange, 9 times out of 10 the water heater is the problem.

2. Old Galvanized Pipes That Have Finally Given Up

If your house was built before roughly 1975 in Connecticut, there’s a good chance the plumbing is galvanized steel. I still find original galvanized pipes in 1950s capes in West Hartford, 1960s colonials in Cheshire, and even some 1970s ranches. I just did a house in Madison CT last week that had this problem (see cover photo).

Galvanized pipes have a lifespan of 40–60 years. After that, the zinc coating inside disappears and the steel rusts from the inside out. The rust narrows the pipe (reducing water pressure) and flakes off in big chunks—especially after water has sat overnight.

You’ll notice:

- Brown water from both hot and cold taps

- Worse in the morning or after you’ve been away

- Reduced pressure over the years

- Occasional “rust chunks” in faucet aerators

Fixing galvanized pipes is a big job—often $8,000–$20,000+ to repipe the house with PEX or copper—but it’s one of the best upgrades you can do. I’ve had clients who waited too long and ended up with a pin-hole leak that flooded a finished basement. Brown water is usually the warning light before the flood.

3. Well Water Issues: Iron, Manganese, and Iron Bacteria

If you’re on a private well (very common outside the I-95 and I-91 corridors), brown water can come straight from the ground.

• Clear water that turns red-brown after sitting in the glass → dissolved ferrous iron (very common in Connecticut bedrock wells)

• Sudden orange-brown slime and rotten-egg smell → iron bacteria

• Black staining → manganese

I test wells on almost every rural inspection. A few towns like Marlborough, Hebron, and parts of Litchfield County are famous for high iron. The water can be perfectly safe to drink but stains everything it touches once it hits oxygen.

Solutions range from a $300–$500 water test and a simple oxidizing filter ($1,500–$3,000) to a full water treatment system if you have multiple issues.

4. Municipal Water Main Disturbances (The One That Fixes Itself)

If you’re on city water and the brown water started suddenly and affects every house on the street, relax—sort of. The water utility probably flushed a hydrant or repaired a main nearby. That stirs up decades of rust and sediment in the large iron mains under the street. It usually clears in a few hours to a day once you run the cold water.

Pro tip: During these events, avoid washing white laundry or running the dishwasher until the water runs clear for 10–15 minutes.

How Bad Is It, Really?

Symptom	Urgency Level	Typical Repair Cost (CT 2025 prices)
Only hot water brown	Medium	$1,200–$2,200 (new water heater)
Hot + cold, old house	High	$8,000–$25,000 (full repipe)
Well water, orange slime & smell	Medium-High	$2,000–$7,000 (treatment system)
Sudden, whole street affected	Low	$0 (just wait it out)

What I Recommend When I See This During an Inspection

1. Immediate flush: Run every hot-water faucet in the house for 15–20 minutes (outside if possible).

2. Check/replace the anode rod (costs $75–$150 with a plumber).

3. If the water heater is 12+ years old, budget for replacement anyway—brown water is usually the beginning of the end.

4. If galvanized pipes are present and rusting, get repipe quotes before you buy or list the house.

5. Well owners: get a full water test (iron, manganese, bacteria, pH, hardness).

Brown water is annoying and ugly, but it’s also one of the clearest warning signs a house will give you that something underneath is aging out. Catch it early and you’re looking at a few thousand dollars. Ignore it and you’re gambling on a much larger repair bill—or a flooded basement.

If you’re seeing rusty water right now and want a second opinion, send me a photo of the water in a clear glass (hot side vs. cold side) along with your town and the approximate age of the house. I’ll tell you within minutes whether it’s a water-heater weekend or a repipe year.

Stay dry (and rust-free),

Your Connecticut Home Inspector