What’s Covered in a Well Inspection: A Home Inspector’s Comprehensive Guide

Unlike municipal water, wells are your responsibility, and failures can lead to contaminated water, costly repairs, or even health risks. A thorough well inspection evaluates the system’s components for safety, and efficiency.

In this post, I’ll walk you through exactly what a professional well inspection entails, based on standards from the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) and my field experience. We’ll cover key elements like the well head’s location, height, and condition; the pressure tank’s details; the pressure switch; piping; pump type; and performance tests including flow, pressure, electrical current, and cycle time. Think of this as your roadmap to a reliable water supply. Let’s dive in.

Starting at the Source: The Well Head and Casing

The well head is the visible top of your well—the entry point where water is accessed and protected. Inspections always begin here, as it’s the first line of defense against contamination.

• Location of the Well Head: I start by noting its position relative to potential hazards. Codes require wells to be at least 50 feet from septic tanks, 100 feet from drainfields, and 10 feet from property lines or structures. In flood-prone areas like parts of the Connecticut River Valley, it must be above the 100-year floodplain. If it’s too close to a driveway or barn, runoff could introduce bacteria or chemicals. During one inspection in Litchfield County, I flagged a well head just 20 feet from a manure pile— a red flag for E. coli risks.

• Well Head Height: The head must extend at least 12-18 inches above grade to prevent surface water entry during heavy rains or snowmelt. In Connecticut’s variable climate, low heads often lead to flooding. I measure this precisely; if it’s too short, extensions or grading adjustments are recommended, costing $500–$1,500.

• Condition of the Well Head and Casing: The head (often a metal cap) should be secure, vermin-proof, and vented properly to avoid vacuum issues. I check for cracks, rust, or loose seals that could allow insects, rodents, or debris inside. The casing—the steel or PVC pipe extending into the ground—must be intact without dents or corrosion. Older steel casings (pre-1980s) rust over time, compromising the well’s integrity. I use a flashlight and mirror to inspect the top 4-6 feet; deeper issues might require a camera scope ($200–$400 extra). Poor condition often means re-casing, a $5,000+ job.

measuring the well head

Inside the System: The Pressure Tank

Once the head is clear, we move indoors (usually the basement) to the pressure tank, which stores water and maintains system pressure, reducing pump cycles.

Location, Age, Manufacturer, and Condition: Tanks are typically near the well piping entry. I document the manufacturer (e.g., Well-X-Trol by Amtrol or bladder tanks from Goulds) via labels. Age is key—most last 10-20 years; I check manufacture dates stamped on the tank. Condition assessment includes rust, leaks, or dents. Bladder tanks (with an internal diaphragm) are common and preferred over older galvanized ones, which can corrode internally. In a recent Hartford County inspection, a 25-year-old tank was waterlogged (no air cushion), causing short-cycling and premature pump failure. Replacement costs $800–$2,000.

The Pressure Switch: The System’s Brain

The pressure switch controls when the pump turns on/off, based on tank pressure.

• Manufacturer, Type (30/50 or 40/60), and Condition: Common makers include Square D or Furnas. Types refer to cut-in/cut-out pressures: 30/50 psi (pump starts at 30, stops at 50) for standard homes, or 40/60 for higher-demand systems. I verify this matches the tank and household needs. Condition checks include corrosion, wiring integrity, and secure mounting. Faulty switches cause erratic pressure or constant running.

• Condition of the Pressure Switch Contacts: These internal points can pit or burn from arcing. I carefully open the cover (power off!) to inspect for oxidation or wear. Pitted contacts lead to unreliable operation; in one case, they caused a pump to overheat and fail, costing $1,500. Cleaning or replacement ($100–$300) is straightforward but essential.

picture of pressure switch contacts

Piping and Pump: The Delivery System

• Well Piping Material: From the well to the house, piping is usually PVC, polyethylene, or copper. I check for leaks, corrosion (copper turns green), or brittleness (old PVC cracks). Galvanized steel, if present, often rusts and restricts flow—common in pre-1990s wells.

• Pump Type (Submersible or Jet): Submersible pumps (most common today) sit deep in the well, pushing water up efficiently for deeper wells (100+ feet). Jet pumps, above ground, pull water and suit shallower wells (<25 feet). I note the type via system setup or records. Submersibles last 10-15 years; jets 8-12. Issues like noisy operation signal wear.

Performance Testing: Putting It All to the Test

No inspection is complete without functional tests to ensure the well delivers safe, sufficient water.

• Flow Test: I run multiple fixtures (e.g., tub, shower, hose) simultaneously for 30-60 minutes, measuring gallons per minute (GPM). Residential wells should yield 3-5 GPM minimum; low flow (<3 GPM) indicates pump issues, clogged screens, or low aquifer levels. In drought-prone eastern CT, I’ve seen yields drop seasonally.

• Flow Pressure: Using a gauge at an outdoor spigot, I check PSI during flow. Ideal is 40-60 PSI; drops below 30 suggest restrictions or weak pumps.

• Electrical Current: With a clamp meter, I measure amps drawn by the pump during operation. High amps indicate binding or overload; low suggest wiring faults. This prevents electrical fires—common with undersized circuits.

• Pump Cycle Time: I time how long the pump runs to refill the tank after draining (e.g., via a hose). Normal cycles are 1-2 minutes; short-cycling (<30 seconds) points to waterlogged tanks or leaks, wearing out the pump prematurely.

flow meter showing 3.6 gallons per minute

Water Quality: The Often-Overlooked Essential

While not always included in basic inspections, I recommend testing for potability. Labs check for bacteria (coliform/E. coli), nitrates, pH, hardness, iron, and radon (prevalent in CT granite areas). Costs $400-450, but it’s vital—contaminated wells have caused illnesses in my clients.

What My Well Inspection Does NOT Include — and Never Will

• A true **well yield test

• A recovery rate test

• A draw-down test

Why Those Three Tests Are Unreliable When Done During a Home Inspection

1. They Require Pumping the Well “Dry” or Close to It A legitimate yield test involves running the well at full capacity until the water level drops to the pump intake (or lower), then timing how fast it recovers. That often means pumping 50–200 gallons per minute for hours using a high-volume test pump. → During a home inspection we are limited to the homeowner’s ½–1 hp submersible pump and normal household flow (5–12 GPM). We literally cannot stress the aquifer enough to get accurate data.
   

2. Seasonal and Weather Variations Are Massive in Connecticut The same well can produce 15 GPM in April after snowmelt and only 1–2 GPM in September after a dry summer drought. → A “yield test” performed on one random day in July tells you almost nothing about worst-case conditions.
   

3. Recovery Is Affected by Nearby Wells and Recent Use If the neighbor has been irrigating or the seller just filled a pool, the aquifer is temporarily depressed. Conversely, if no one has used water for 24 hours, recovery looks artificially fast. → The results are meaningless without weeks of monitoring.
   

4. The Only Reliable Yield Data Comes From… …from the original well driller’s log  or a professional 4–8 hour constant-rate pump test performed by a licensed well contractor with a flow meter and down-hole transducer. That costs $800–$2,000 and is almost never done for a standard real-estate transaction.

Wrapping Up: Why Well Inspections Matter and Next Steps

A full well inspection takes 1 hour and costs $300–$600, often bundled with home inspections. It uncovers hidden issues before they become emergencies, like a failed pump during a holiday weekend ($2,000+ fix). In Connecticut, DPH requires inspections for sales if the well is new or modified, but proactive checks every 3-5 years are smart.

If issues arise, solutions range from simple (new switch) to major (new well, $10,000–$20,000). Maintain your well by keeping the area clear, testing annually, and avoiding chemicals nearby.